Identification “buys time”

The ID tag should have your name and a current phone number. Absent identifying information, dogs are often euthanized in municipal (or even private) shelters after a relatively short period: perhaps even immediately. Identification buys time: a move or change of contact info necessitates new tags immediately. Think ahead: don’t endure the mistake of assuming your indoor dog doesn’t need to wear a collar & tags: a small dog will end up slipping out the front door at least once in his life.

Consider that the number you caption should be one that will be answered promptly. That might mean a phone that isn’t actually yours.

ID tags should include: the word “REWARD” in capital letters on the first line; your city and state, your home & work phone numbers; and a friend or relative's phone number (with area codes: today, many area code exchanges are exhausted, and you must not assume someone checking a tag can assume the area code). Other practical ideas include reflective and glow-in-the-dark collars which dramatically increase the chances that
your dog can be seen at night.

About the size of a grain of rice, glass-encapsulated (non-permeable) microchips (transponders) are injected without anesthetic under the skin (usually between the shoulder blades) by your veterinarian: typically, your dog won't be aware the procedure has occurred. Some manufacturers produce (declared) bio-compatible (FDA-approved), polymer (plastic) devices.

The pet identification microchip has a 9, 10, or 15 digit number embedded into it that can be read by a hand-held scanner (see below). That number is entered into a database that identifies the chip vendor, who has access to your personal contact information: should your dog go missing and wind up with local animal control or at an animal shelter, they would only need to scan for the microchip to see that he is not a stray and would be able to begin the process to obtain information to reunite you.

Contrary to popular belief,
the transponder/microchip scanner:

The scanner is used to “interrogate” and check that the microchip is working properly: it uses a frequency-specific radio wave to (1) turn the (battery-less) microchip/transponder on, then (2) sends a signal to the chip, which, in turn, (3) responds by returning the number to the scanner.

A microchip will also remain as backup when a collar with a detachable safety-clip fulfills its design to release if your dog gets hung up during his wayward journey.

Today, the majority of animal control facilities, shelters, and veterinarians have and use the scanners when stray animals are brought in, (modern scanners are marketed as “universal,” although this can be problematic). It’s important to understand that a microchip itself does not store information, only a registration number.

The registries that maintain the chip numbers are ordinarily open 24 hours a day. Depending on the contract, some companies provide a more comprehensive service, such as E-mail networking, and pre-authorizing a financial limit in case your dog is found injured, or scanned in a veterinary facility.

Any registry will maintain your contact info permanently, and most will allow updating without cost.

Contact information should preferably include a cell phone number that you can answer any time of day (or when you are outside looking for him), as well as a back-up contact as a safeguard. Costs of microchipping have dropped dramatically and are generally quite modest, enfolding the vet fee to inject the chip, and one to have your information entered into the parent company database (see: “microchip registration databases,” below). Today, many states, municipalities, and private charities or rescue groups operate programs to subsidize these costs as a community service: contact your town hall or access a state website for contact information.

Although rare (perhaps most common in an especially athletic dog), a microchip/transponder might migrate somewhat, slipping towards his shoulder, elbow or chest. Have your vet scan your dog annually and they’ll be able to reassure you; however, as ordinary practice, conscientious veterinary clinics or shelters will broadly scan a dog's entire upper body.

The scanners (interrogators) themselves are expensive, and few shelters or rescue organizations would be able to afford both types (or all three), and so, a shelter that can’t read the microchip implanted in your dog means that it would be useless in that situation.

The two major vendors of 125 kHz transponders and readers for pet ID in the United States are AVID Identification Systems (Avid Friend Chip™/PETtrac™ registry) and Digital Angel (Home Again®). Voluntary cooperation between manufacturers has failed, and further, market competition and intentional incompatibility between manufacturers' microchips and scanners have led to controversy and legal conflict: the companies generally don’t want a “universal” scanner to be compatible with their equipment, as a means to ensure sales of their own scanners. This is accomplished by encrypting the frequency at which the microchip is read: a shelter using a scanner lacking the correct algorithm cannot decode the microchip radio signal emitted by the microchip.

“Forward-reading” scanners detect 134.2 kHz (ISO standard) microchips, but will not detect 125 kHz or 128 kHz (non-ISO standard) microchips. Universal scanners, (called “forward-and-backward reading” scanners), can detect all three frequencies. The main advantage of universal scanners is the improved chances of detecting and reading a microchip, regardless of the frequency, assuming that the specific algorithm can be interrogated.

Problems arise when a shelter or vet interprets “universal” incorrectly, assuming that if their scanner picks up three different brands of transponders, it is “universal.” However, some brands are on the same chip frequency, and some make several different types of microchips. Unfortunately, many organizations are unknowingly still using non-universal (forward-scanning or backward-scanning) devices, which means they are missing chips and, therefore, unable to reunite lost pets with their families.

Subsequent to a number of high-profile legal skirmishes focused on patent, advertising, and anti-trust law among the global manufacturers, courts have essentially validated the 125 kHz system for use in the US (2006): substantially based on the numerical advantage of sales.

To help alleviate the frustrations that arise from incompatibility, the 2005 Agriculture Appropriations Bill (HR 2744: advocated by the American Veterinary Medical Association [AVMA], and signed by President Bush in 2006) ordered a universal approach, and charged the Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service (APHIS) with developing rules for standardizing microchips.

Although its original language did include a specification for the ISO 134.2 standard, ultimately, the legislation does not specify a standard, nor, even that an ISO standard be used. Rather, it supports “the microchipping of pets for identification under a system of open microchip technology in which all scanners can read all chips.” A (July 2007) USDA-APHIS report to Congress noted that The Animal Welfare Act of 1996 does not authorize the USDA-APHIS to regulate private pet ownership or retail business, and as such, the organization concluded that it cannot mandate a national standard for pet microchips or scanners.

At the least, however, the agency can support standardization within the facilities or entities that it is charged with regulating, which include animal exhibitors and animal dealers.

The problem with
Microchip Registration Databases

The US remains distinct in that unlike other countries, implantation and registration of transponders are generally separate processes, with the lack of a centralized database resulting in low efficiency in reuniting lost pets with their families. Research has indicated that less than 60% of microchipped animals were “registered” when shelters attempted to interrogate the chips, and further, that many were rendered useless because the contact information was incorrect.

Since 2009, a number of independent microchip registries have launched online, but many of these registries are stand-alone and/or commercial (fee-based) products that are not linked to manufacturer (or vendor) registries. With financial motivation information, sharing may be limited. Some families choose to register their animals in multiple registries or with the manufacturer as a “safety net.”

In response, The American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA) created the AAHA Universal Pet Microchip Lookup Tool, a centralized search engine which allows users to enter a microchip code and directs them to (among the six US-based) participating microchip registries associated with that microchip's number and the microchip's manufacturer[5], as well as the date the chip was last updated.

Important Links:

Check to see if your dog’s chip is recorded:
American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA) Universal Pet Microchip Lookup

Learn which databases feed into the AAHA Universal Pet Microchip Lookup:
Participating Microchipping and Pet Recovery Services

Free Pet Chip Registry:
feeds data into the AAHA Universal Lookup Tool.

PetMaxx:
the international database that searches more than 30 international pet recovery databases.

To date, no statistically valid experimental studies involving microchip implants in dogs has been undertaken.

A “flash mode” LED collar
can be additionally useful to keep track of your dog during daylight
off-leash walks.

Light-emitting diode (LED) flashers that quickly clip to your dog's collar are especially helpful in keeping track of (or finding him) after dark. Reasonably priced, and available as discs or “icicles,” many can be seen from significant distances: a good practice is to use them any time within an hour or so of dusk. The LED is powered by a small 3-volt lithium coin-battery, providing up to 20 hours of light in static mode, or 25 hours in flashing mode.

Newly available LED collars, harnesses, vests and leashes—including those with reflective stitching—can be seen up to 1,000 feet (with claims up to a mile) away. Today, manufacturers have moved beyond merely “coin batteries”—which do hold charge for lengthy periods—with more environmentally friendly offerings that are replenished with a quick-charge USB cable that can be charged from any device, offering up to 10 hours of “strobe”/flashing light on a single 1-hour run-up;
and even solar-charge units.

The range of offerings means you don’t have to settle: LED dog collars come in a few different styles, some have 360-light LED strips that surround the entire collar, while other units have LED lights only on certain sections that may, depending on the dog, leave inconvenient “blank spots.” Examine choices carefully: most importantly, choose a model that does not place the batter pack or buckle opposite to the clip loop: this puts put the battery needlessly pressing against the front of his neck. The battery size and weight can be important considerations for small dogs.

While no collar will be completely “waterproof” such that it would withstand being submerged in water, many are at least water resistant enough to hold up in light rain.

Tatoo-ing:
The Federal Pet Theft Act

In 1990, the 1966 Animal Welfare Act [6] (Agriculture: the first federal law in the US regulating animals in research) was amended to include The Federal Pet Theft Act (7 USC 2158, Ch. 54, §2158), which mandates a five-day holding period for shelters before selling a pet to a “Class B dealer” (including brokers, and operators of an auction sale); or, any “random source” organization (Connecticut also prohibits the process via statute: Ch. 45, §22-351). This is to help prevent stolen pets from being too-quickly sold to research companies—as many municipal shelters do—and to allow the family (deemed: “owner”) to reclaim the animal.

The Act had it’s roots in a 1965 dog-napping case that ultimately exposed the sordid practices through which research laboratories obtained animals from thieves moving animals across state lines. The topic garnered unusual and unified public attention following an exposé in Life Magazine, stirring a broad panic over the theft of pets for biomedical research.

The 1990 amendment was passed to ensure that all companion animals used in research facilities were “legally” obtained, and also to help protect pet owners from having their pets stolen for research purposes. The entities to which the Federal Pet Theft Act applies include all public and private animal shelters, as well as any research facility licensed by the federal Department of Agriculture: “[i]n the case of each dog or cat acquired… such entity shall hold and care for such dog or cat for a period of not less than five days to enable such dog or cat to be recovered by its original owner or adopted by other individuals before such entity sells such dog or cat to a dealer.”

To prevent fraud and pet theft, “B” dealers are thus allowed to obtain dogs and cats only from other licensed dealers and from animal pounds or shelters. Under 9 CFR 2.132 - Procurement of dogs, cats, and other animals; dealers, “B” dealers are prohibited to obtain animals “by use of false pretenses, misrepresentation, or deception,” and are required to maintain “accurate and complete records,” including records on “[h]ow, where from whom, and when the dog or cat was obtained.” As such, appearing to adopt pursuant to a “free to a good home” offer would be considered illegal, because the adopter’s intent would not be legitimate.

While animals are often transported across state lines to camouflage their origin, and records falsified—“B” dealers often work with “bunchers” who do the actual stealing in a pet theft ring—the Act seeks to offer families modest protection in that a research facility cannot accept an animals absent certification that the animal has been held for at least five days by the shelter. As such, a family would have a cause of action against a shelter that is not in compliance with the Federal Pet Theft Act, even if the shelter is in compliance with its local laws.

“Radio-frequency” and GPS Tracking Devices.

Clip-on or collar-integrated tools to track lost pets are available in two types. High technology global positioning system (GPS) devices—similar to what you use in your car—use satellites to locate a tracker, and then transmit non-ionizing radio frequency data through a cellular network (assuming coverage is available), to a “receiver” (perhaps a phone), and as such, require monthly monitoring service fees. Many work with Google Maps that consumers are already familiar with. The frequencies travel in straight lines, and use satellites to bounce off one another for great distances; or, through Bluetooth/Wi-fi networks (which would be fee-free: although useful for distances of only about .8 mile, or 100 feet).

Single-dog outfits are available for less than $100, and refurbished or past-model units can offer savings. The products are generally water-resistant, or can be submerged for brief periods without failing; more expensive units are guaranteed waterproof. Battery life can range from 1 – 7 days or more; some are rechargeable.

GPS devices are aided by the Federal Aviation Authority’s wide area augmentation system GPS (WAAS-GPS), which uses a North American-based network of ground-based reference stations to measure small variations in the GPS satellites' signals in the western hemisphere. These measurements are transmitted to “geostationary” satellites and ensure deviations are corrected for absolute accuracy.

Less sophisticated (but not necessarily less expensive) radio frequency tracker models utilize a somewhat dated technology, transmitting radio waves to a “receiver station,” and cover distance similar to the use of a “walkie-talkie,” with a range generally linked to cost.

Radio-frequency trackers act much like a compass, pointing the user in the direction of the dog. This simplicity may satisfy many users, particularly in rural areas; but may be less useful in more crowded, urban locations. However, radio-frequency trackers are more reliable than GPS models in remote locations where cell-service may be spotty or even non-existent, and they might even be superior in areas where those signals may be “blocked” or obstructed: such as a city center. Moreover, battery life in these simple units can extend to months, and these units don’t require monitoring/subscription fees.

Of these, manufacturers market capabilities for programming multiple dogs at once; more substantial units scan the dog’s location every few seconds (even in dense cover) and transmit to a hand-held map screen. So-called “sport” models are designed for hunting dogs, and these waterproof and rechargeable units can track dogs even ten miles away, without cell-phone service.

Neither type of tracking system is invasive or requires the installation of sensors. Of the GPS-type, many vendors offer “geo-fencing,” which allows the guardian to establish an electronic perimeter: dubbed a “safe zone.” Now programmed, the device clips on the dog's collar and “senses” when the wearer leaves this configurable boundary (the Bluetooth connection is broken). The guardian is then alerted “real time” via text message, Email, or the product “app” to the dog's real-time location with turn-by-turn directions to that exact spot; smartphone users have access to live map applications. Multiple zones can be programmed and operated simultaneously.

Increasingly stylish and unobtrusive, some are built-in to collars, and have LED lights visible at night from significant distance. Some can be triggered to emit an audible beep (similar to the dog wearing a bell) that mey help. Others are equipped with a rescue button so that a “Good Samaritan” who finds the missing dog can notify the guardian and monitoring service immediately.

It’s important to invest time evaluating the various available devices: is that light bright enough to actually be seen? Is the audible “beep” really loud enough to be heard? These features may in reality prove negligible or even useless.

Equally important is understanding the means by which signals are transmitted. Products that operate through a strictly close-range “Bluetooth” connection—that may become extremely limited in scope—will fail out of urbanized settings. A more robust combination of GPS and cellular data connection, particularly on an “unlimited” data plan phone, will be a better choice.

Around the Yard.

Gates leading to the street should be equipped with spring closers, and locked, preferably with a “caribbean” clip. Remember that visitors will generally not have the heightened sense of vigilance that you need, and even friends and family need to be educated—often—on the importance of this issue to you. If service persons need access to your yard insist on firm schedules so you can put your dog elsewhere
when they are expected.

•Garbage:

Put the cans outside the gate yourself, the previous night. These employees are generally on a tight schedule, and won’t have time to ensure your gate is secured.

•Meter readers:

Request a scheduled appointment, and they will likely cooperate. Also, many utility companies will teach and allow you to send in your own readings (augmented with a quarterly or semi-annual check on accuracy by their own personnel). Modern meters can be read electronically, and many utility vendors are replacing old units with them (in part, for accuracy, but also, as service can be “shut off” remotely); ask if this is available, so that you
can be upgraded.

•Pool or yard maintenance personnel:

Choose companies whose employees are bonded, as they will be trained to be more sensitive to pet security issues, since you’d have contractual recourse if they carelessly cause damage—or leave your gate open.

Insist on meeting the person who will be coming to your home, and stop him/her before work begins to stress that your dog will escape and will not return if the gate is left opened for even a moment: workers should accurately sense your intensity on the issue. You should feel comfortable repeating your instructions from time to time to ensure urgency. Have a secure place to leave your dog on the days such maintenance is scheduled.

Long Walks Benefit Both You and Your Dog

Invest the time to introduce your dog to the neighborhood beyond just a street or two. Let him learn landmarks to help him find his way home (or, to distract him and limit the distance he might travel) if he does escape. More importantly, introduce to him to the neighbors—particularly children who may play out front and retired people who may spend time watching what goes on—they may be among the first to notice him when he does wander. Encourage willing neighbors to let your dogs interact and become familiar with each other: your dog might “stop for a visit” if mistakenly out on his own, buying you valuable time.

Emphasize that your dog is never let out alone and exchange numbers where you can be reached if they do see him—or you see their dog—outside.

Teach your dog a specific “Secret” signal

Lost dogs often become fearful and “hunker down,” remaining unseen perhaps only feet away from your search, which often becomes increasingly frustrated and tense. In many instances, lost dogs sense unintended “irritation” in their family’s calling.

Instead, your cheerful call might be: “Cookie! Cookie!”

Always give a treat and affection when he responds to this, and don’t use it to catch him for things he doesn’t absolutely love (grooming, “tricking” him to coming inside, going to the vet, etc.).

Have friends do this with your dog as well, to condition him that it is a distinct cue to come for goodies. It is even easier to teach than a formal obedience recall, may aid you in finding him when lost—and could save your dog's life
in a different type of emergency.

Spay and Neuter.
Travel.
Boarding facilities.

When considering a boarding facility, examine the grounds, facilities, and equipment to thoroughly analyze all the business metrics for safety: is the entirety of the facility fenced? ...do gates automatically close? ...is there protection against strangers entering the premises? ...does any equipment provide an unintended means to scale the boundaries of the property? ...are there at least two doors or other barriers between your dog and the outside at all times? Be blunt: ask what their track record is and what the business protocols are,
should your dog escape.

[1] (9 or 10-digit numeric) include HomeAgain® (Digital Angel), AVID, 24PetWatch®, Banfield®.

[2] (15-digit alphanumeric) include Microfinder®, Datamars, Bayer resQ, HomeAgain® (Destron Fearing), AVID, 24PetWatch®, AKC/CAR, Banfield®.

[3] (10-digit numeric) AKC/CAR.

[4] See: Lord LK, Wittum TE, Ferketich AK, et al., Search methods that owners use to find a lost dog. J Amer Vet Med Assoc 2007: 229, 230; also, Lord LK, Ingwerson W, Gray JL et al., Characterization of animals with microchips entering animal shelters., J Amer Vet Med Assoc 2009: (235) [AMVA]

[5] The AAHA Universal Microchip Lookup Tool is not a registry itself: it searches the databases of companies that elect to participate in the program: (list of Participating Microchipping and Pet Recovery Services). Some “free” registries do report, (Free Pet Chip Registry), and while other non-profit services, such as The Found Animals Microchip Registry do not, however, may still be useful as they will direct back to the
AAHA Lookup Tool.

[6] Originally the Laboratory Animal Welfare Act (P.L. 89-544), which set minimum standards of care and housing for dogs, cats, primates, rabbits, hamsters and guinea pigs in the premises of animal dealers and laboratories, and requires identification of dogs and cats to prevent theft. Dealers and laboratories henceforth had to be federally licensed and registered, respectively.

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